Road to Hana: Tips for First-Timers
The Road to Hana is 64 miles of two-lane highway with 617 curves and 59 bridges, most of them one lane. The drive itself is the point -- waterfalls, bamboo forest, black sand beaches, and the most lush, green coastline in the Pacific. Done right, it is one of the great drives in the world. Done wrong, it is a traffic jam in a rental car.
Leave Early -- Before 7 a.m.
The Road to Hana becomes a slow convoy by mid-morning, especially in high season. Tour vans, rental cars, and guided excursions all pile onto the same narrow road from around 8:30 a.m. onward. Leaving from Kihei by 6:30 or 7:00 a.m. puts you ahead of most of that traffic. You will have the best waterfalls to yourself and reach Hana by mid-morning with the afternoon still ahead.
From Maui Sands Seaside, drive north on Hana Highway via Paia. The road starts in Paia town, about 30 miles from Kihei. Total driving time from Kihei to Hana town is about 3 hours without stops -- 4 to 5 hours with a few.
Stock the Car Before You Leave
Food and supplies along the route are limited, expensive, and can run out by midday in high season. Fill a cooler with:
- Water -- at least two liters per person
- Lunch and snacks from the unit kitchen or a Kihei grocery store
- Sunscreen and insect repellent (it gets buggy in Hana)
- A light rain jacket or poncho -- the windward coast gets rain regularly
- Cash -- some roadside stands and parking attendants are cash-only
Worth Stopping For
Twin Falls
The first major stop at Mile Marker 2. Two waterfalls accessible via a short walk. Gets crowded quickly in the morning -- aim to arrive before 8 a.m. if you want it relatively quiet. The falls themselves are beautiful and the pools are swimmable.
Waikamoi Ridge Trail
A short, steep trail through eucalyptus and bamboo at Mile Marker 9. About 30 minutes round trip. Worth it for the views and the cool air.
Ke'anae Peninsula
A dramatic lava coastline at roughly the midpoint of the drive. The waves crash against the black rock with force. The Ke'anae Arboretum (free) just before it has good shade and a variety of native plants. The banana bread stand at Aunty Sandy's near the peninsula is a Road to Hana institution.
Wai'anapanapa State Park (Black Sand Beach)
A black sand beach formed by volcanic lava and pounding surf about five miles before Hana town. The coastline is dramatic. Swimming here is dangerous due to strong currents and shore break -- go for the scenery and the lava arch trail, not a swim. Timed-entry reservations are required through the Hawaii State Parks system; book well in advance.
Hana Town
Small and quiet. The Hasegawa General Store has been the center of Hana life for generations. Hana Ranch Restaurant serves simple food. The real reward for making it to Hana is the sense of arrival at a place genuinely off the beaten path.
Perfect day-trip base
Unit 711 in Kihei puts you 30 minutes from the start of the Road to Hana. Leave before 7 a.m. and you beat the traffic. Come back to a west-facing lanai and sunset at the end of the day.
Check availabilityComing Back: The Two Options
You can return the same way you came (the way most visitors go -- it's different in reverse) or continue past Hana and loop around the south shore via Kipahulu and the Piilani Highway. The Kipahulu route passes the Oheo Gulch Seven Sacred Pools and drops into Upcountry Maui. It is not recommended for standard rental cars -- the south section is rough and some rental agreements prohibit it. Check with your rental company before attempting it.
Most visitors return via the same road. Afternoon traffic has thinned by 4 p.m. and the light on the north coast at that hour is excellent for photography.
What to Skip
Every list of "50 must-stop Road to Hana attractions" is designed to sell an app or a tour. The reality: many stops are overcrowded, have poor facilities, and are not significantly better than other spots you can access freely. Skip anything with a large paid parking lot unless the specific attraction is on your list. The drive itself is what you are there for.